In the heart of Mitte, surrounded by neo-modern townhouses and the foreign office, Chipps has earned a reputation as a prime breakfast joint. With Berlin’s culinary nighthawks in mind, the restaurant has now also revamped its evening menu concept. Could there be a restaurant crush coming on?
Heinz Gindullis, or Cookie as he’s known to his friends and partners, isn’t exactly a daytime entrepreneur. As regular readers of Berlin&I will know, he is a bit of a nightlife celebrity in Berlin. In the short space of 18 years, he has been the driving force behind a nocturnal empire consisting of two clubs, a restaurant and no less than three bars. For him to open a restaurant like Chipps – alongside his current project Drayton Bar – probably came as a bit of a surprise to those who only see him in the dark. Nevertheless, with its unique location on Jägerstraße – a stone’s throw away from the German Foreign Office – and oodles of vegetarian goodies to get the day off to a comfortable start, the restaurant has quickly established itself as a firm fixture on Berlin’s brunch map.
Together with his chef cook and culinary mentor, Stephan Hentschel, Cookie now puts together evening menus that appeal to vegetarians and meat-eaters alike. However, as is becoming more and more de rigeur in our green, sustainable times, veg is in the limelight. At Chipps, meat and fish are considered more of a side dish and not even all that necessary, when you consider how mouth-watering some of the vegetarian combinations are. Believe us, mouths start to water before the first order has even been taken. Served up in a decidedly minimalistic interior, with specially made copper lamps to underline the slightly canteeny, yet very trendy feel of the place, customers get to see the food prepared using fresh ingredients right next to their tables. For Berlin, sitting this close to the culinary action is very intimate and definitely a step in the right direction. Back to the food!
For starters on the summer menu, Hentschel and his team serve up sleek variations of classics. The piquancy of a wild garlic soup is subtly balanced with ricotta cheese and almonds, while the burrata on rösti leaves you wondering why something this simple and tasty hasn’t been done before. Seeing as it is summer, white asparagus from Beelitz is a must-eat for the main course. Set aside a helping of herb gnocchi with roasted pine seeds and goat’s cheese, it’s a welcome change to the all too formulaic asparagus menu you’ll find everywhere this time of year. Not that there’s anything wrong with the traditional asparagus ensemble, served with potatoes, sauce hollandaise and ham or schnitzel. It’s just nice to see this fine vegetable take centre stage against a different, more Mediterranean backdrop. To wrap the evening’s fare up, it’s the regulars’ choice: lemon polenta cake served in a small jam jar. Even if you may think you’ll be needing another bottle of select Riesling to get through something dry for dessert, this little treat has just the right texture and moisture to round off an evening meal.
Mon – Fri: 8 a.m. to late
Sat & Sun: 9 a.m. to late
T +49 (0)30 36 444 588